Surfing Giants
Another cool posting from my writing partner Jessica, but this time not a music related one. Check it out:
I have a lot of passions in my life: writing, art, music, the perfect mac & cheese, books. But, after watching Riding Giants -- the documentary about big wave riders by Dogtown and Z-Boys filmmaker Stacy Peralta -- I'm wishing I had that one big love in my life. That one big passion. They'd forfeit comfy salaries, a nice house, even clean clothes just to live their lives in the ocean; to experience the adrenaline it gives them. In the interviews they were so zen about being one with the ocean, the feeling of nothing else but the wave, and the life-and-death rush. I have to admit, I was smitten with envy. Click here for more details about the movie or go to your local video store and rent it.
I have a lot of passions in my life: writing, art, music, the perfect mac & cheese, books. But, after watching Riding Giants -- the documentary about big wave riders by Dogtown and Z-Boys filmmaker Stacy Peralta -- I'm wishing I had that one big love in my life. That one big passion. They'd forfeit comfy salaries, a nice house, even clean clothes just to live their lives in the ocean; to experience the adrenaline it gives them. In the interviews they were so zen about being one with the ocean, the feeling of nothing else but the wave, and the life-and-death rush. I have to admit, I was smitten with envy. Click here for more details about the movie or go to your local video store and rent it.
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